Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
